Introduction: Constitute an Infinity Mirror Clock

In a premature project I built an infinity mirror, where my ultimate end for it was to make it into a clock. (Stool a Colorful Infinity Mirror) I didn't pursue that later on building it because, although IT did attend cool, there were a few things with the design that I didn't like. For this project I have past through a redesign and connected information technology to an Arduino, making a time.

Some of the photos that I enclosed have information that's not listed in the step, so go over entirely of the photos for complete of the info for from each one gradation. Also, while building this project, there were a few times that my camera either didn't bring forward the photos, surgery some of the photos got lost. If there are any steps that are unclear, please leave a remark. I will update this Instructable as necessary.

If you would rather see a video version of this Instructable, you buns survey that here: https://youtu.be/GZtmViBg-K4

Supplies

Step 1: Build the Wood Frame: Layer 1

I made a template for the pieces of the woodwind instrument part of the frame. I cut impermissible one and derived it onto a 1/4" square dowel, then cut the joggle at my marks. The wood frame has 2 layers and each level needs 12 of these pieces, so I cut 24 of these pieces from the dowel pin. Each piece is about 73mm from crown to tip, and the angle is 30 degrees.

I want to position these so that the lean against of one will be glued to the bottom of the next unity. Check out the picture to go steady what I mean. I use another template to help me position these as I glue them together, and tape the pieces to the templet with painters tape measure. I glue 12 of these pieces together like this into a circular form, then I let the glue dry.

Step 2: Build the Wood Frame: Layer 2

I enjoyment the else 12 pieces for the second layer. I lost the pictures for this division of the work, so I'll show the results. I didn't manipulation a guide to create the second layer, I just pasted the pieces direct onto the back of the first stratum, and held them together with clamps. If you look at the pictures I have of the joints, you'll see that the two layers are offset and so that the layers financial backing each other. You'll likewise notice that the pieces go beyond the systema skeletale. I did this so that I can sand them smooth and so that they fit together perfectly.

Step 3: Attach the LEDs

The LEDs that I used are individually addressable, and they are from an LED strip. I cut the strip aside at all of the cutting points because I wanted the lights to be closer together than they were on the strip. I attach them 1 section at once with LEDs at for each one corner reefer and 4 LEDs between each corner.

I loosely position the LEDs for the next segment, so using a pencil with a sharp tip I mark the frame between the LEDs and at the ends of the LEDs. The come out at the ends that I mark are where I carved away the wood for the wires go. I too did the same for the backside of the frame where the wires are going from one LED to the following.

Step 4: Solder the LEDs Jointly

When I solder the LEDs jointly, I do them one by one. I position it using the marks that I made sooner, then fold the ends down into the rut that I carved exterior. Earlier bonding the wires to the LED I apply a little of flux, past solder, to the wires and copper pads so that it's easier to solder them unitedly. I solder a Bolshevik wire to the 5+ copper pad, green to the data pad, then white to the ground pad. I used these colors simply because they match the wires I used for the wire connectors.

Before wrapping the wires or so the Natalie Wood frame, I pre-flex them so that they don't misalign the LED that they are soldered to. I pre-bend them by holding the copper pads in place with my thumb then just crooked each wire one by one. Then they are ready to wrap around the framing. Now I can cut bump off the overabundance wire and solder them to the future LED.

I proceed this process all of the way approximately the woods soma. On the penultimate LED I wired the 5+ and ground wires to the first LED, but didn't connect the data telegram. Connected the forward LED I have the input copper pads soldered to an LED connector.

Step 5: Test the LEDs

I connect the call of LEDs to an LED controller to test them out. This is world-shaking just in case there are any stinking LEDs or frightful solder points. Only about half of the lights are kindling functioning, so I power off the lights and examine the LEDs in the area where they stopped lighting up. I could see that the data pad along incomparable of the LEDs had been pulled unsatisfactory so I replaced that LED. I tested the lights over again, and they all illuminated up.

Step 6: Shaping the Aluminum Frame

Now along to the aluminum fles. Victimisation an angle bar (size up is on the picture) I make marks every 67mm. These Marks are where I want to bend it. At each mark down I drill a 1/16" hole, so I note a 30 degree angle at each hole. I cut off this angle with tin tinsnips, then wherever the cutting bent the metal I straightened it with pliers.

Victimisation a woodcut that I cut a 150 grade lean, I use the wood engraving to help me bend the corners at the First Baron Marks of Broughton I made earlier. This alone didn't get the corners to stay bent at 150 degrees, so I enjoyment another guide to help me adjust the bend away hand.

The atomic number 13 frame has 2 pieces to that, front and back. I repeat the process in that step for some pieces of the metal frame.

Step 7: Bonding the Aluminum Frame

I take both of the pieces that I scarce bent, and tape them together in the positions they wish be when double-dyed. I make water sure to put together the open ends of for each one piece on opposite sides of the frame. I use some epoxy glue putty to substitute the gaps at each of the corners, and to bond the open ends together. Also at the ends (but NOT at each corner) I shuffling reliable to add redundant epoxy resin to the interior surfaces to give bound it holds in collaboration strong. DO NOT epoxy glue the front piece to the hindermost piece.

Later on the epoxy sets, I remove the tape. I charge and sandpaper the epoxy at to each one of the corners until it is smooth with the rest of the airfoil.

Step 8: Mount/Tie the Bolts to the Frame

To hold the front of the frame to the back, we plain assume't want to exercise mag tape permanently. Here was my solution; I took 6 pairing nuts, priming coat 2 sides Down to make it arsenic wasted of a rectangle Eastern Samoa I could without detrition all of the way through the threads, and put some notches into the sides. I want to epoxy resin these to the in advance objet d'art thus that I tail bolt information technology to the back. The trick was making sure they dress perfectly, but that turned prohibited to beryllium fairly easy.

Later deciding which opus of the frame I want to use for the second piece, I victimized a 1/16" drill second to drill a hole where I welcome the 6 bolts to go, making sure not to drill these pilot holes too close to the edge. Next I drill the same holes bigger with a 1/8" drilling bit, but then with a 3/16" practice snatch. (I could have skipped the middle size.) Next I inserted the bolt into the hole. I assign the nut on the dash, then taped the front and rearwards jointly once again. I mixed some Thomas More epoxy putty, put over some in the frame below the nut, past pushed the freak into the epoxy and into set. After the epoxy was set, the loony and bolts were all perfectly aligned! I removed the bolts and the tape, then added more epoxy to the sides of the loco. After that set, I filed the epoxy from the front aerofoil of the nuts, exclude for a portion near the bottom of the nut.

Stair 9: Sliced and Prepare the Front Plastic

With the frame all stacked, it's time to finish the insides. Future lets to the front piece of plastic. I ask a mainsheet of plexiglass and place IT low the front piece of the frame, then trace around the frame. When I cut this out, I need to stay inside the line about 1/16" to compensate for the thickness of the aluminum.

Subsequently I write out unfashionable the Plexiglas, I place it on the frame and scratch where I need to carve it proscribed to fit past the nuts and epoxy. Later carving out those places I test fit the plastic, so adjust the carvings as requirement. Once it fits well, it's in order to put off the contemplative film connected it.

Step 10: Cut and Prepare the Aluminum Mirror

For the Al, cutting IT to size is similar to the plastic. Just send it low the fles, trace around it, and then unsexed it inside the line. Where the 6 nuts are you need to swerve slots out, but evenhanded big enough for the nuts and not the epoxy. As wel remember that you need to cut a rut at the pinch for the wires to move through.

Later on it's evenhanded to shape IT's ready to polish. I won't check up on the steps for that here, simply you give notice check up on the Instructable that I made for that process here: Polish Aluminum Sheet Metal to Mirror Finish

Just out of curiosity, I decided to add some of my reflective film to the metal, to see how that compares to the polished aluminum. In the ultimate project, the film will be in the top half of the mirror. In my opinion, it works about the unchanged well, so polishing my non be necessary if you usance the film.

Step 11: Make the Warp Bar

To hyperkinetic syndrome a warping effect to the infinity mirror, I misused a piece of wood that I added a threaded insert in the midway of it. With this I stern have a bolt plough on the seat of the aluminum mirror. This should make the infinity effect curve inwards.

Step 12: Touch-ups Before Final Assembly

With the skeletal frame all finished, I made-up the bronze portion a chrome color. For the wood portion with the LEDs, I added some thick, black tape to some sides, covering the solder points. Then I live glued some scraps of plexiglass to it unofficially that the aluminium will represent pressing against.

Step 13: Assemble the Clock

Now it's metre to put all of the parts together. And remember, the aluminum mirror has the reflective film on the top half.

When adjusting the warping bar, if it's too gas-tight the outcome will be warped in random ways. If the warping is overly crazy and you just want it to curve in towards the center, just loosen the bolt in the warping bar. IT doesn't need to be very difficult to work well.

Step 14: And That's IT!

And that's it! One matter that I didn't acknowledgment is the Arduino that I used. It's an Arduino Nano, and I'll do an Instructable specifically about background that up for this and sum up a link mighty here when that's done.

If there is any ill-use that inevitably more detail, or just ISN't very clear, leave a comment and allow me do it. I'll update this Instructable as necessary.

If you build an Infinity Mirror Clock, I would know to pick up how information technology turns KO'd!

Social Media:

  • Chirrup - https://www.twitter.com/HowDoYouDIY
  • Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/HowDoYouDIY
  • Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/howdoyou.diy

Footstep 15: Arduino Code!!

Here is a liaison to the code I used for the Arduino Nano. This should be a respectable starting point for your project. This is just staple inscribe and leave not restrain the clock accurate for extended lengths of time. In order to keep it accurate, a WiFi connection will be needed Beaver State a Real Prison term Clock added, on with the code to use those.

GitHub: https://github.com/HowDoYouDIY/LED_Clock

I'm currently experimenting with a D1 Mini to get internet time. My GitHub link has 2 folders, and the WiFi pamphlet has files that work with the D1 Mini to get the prison term from the internet. (This lodge version does not utilize touch sensors and does non support manually adjusting the time.)

If you find any issues with this code, delight let me know so that I can fix this foliate. Or if you add any improvements, I would love to attend what you MBD.

Be the Eldest to Share

Recommendations

  • Anything Goes Contest 2022

    Anything Goes Contest 2022